Homecoming
It had been 40 years since I left England and now, for
fortuitous business reasons, I was making a grand return.
Having only the memories of a youngster, I was curious to
find out how truly accurate these recollections were and more importantly, I
was eager to see how much the island nation had changed over four decades.
I’d been following news stories of Britannia for decades and
watched the rise of socialism and the decline of the Empire with great sadness,
but how much of this was sensationalism via the media and how much was reality?
Based on what I’d read, England was a bankrupt socialist haven where half the
people worked in some manner for the state and the other half eagerly awaited
funds from the state to survive. Essentially Britain is depicted as a
multigenerational welfare society that had long since lost it stature as a strong
manufacturing nation steeped in “can do” attitude inherited from the war years.
Now just a victim of an open immigration policy and liberal welfare handouts,
this once proud country was just another example of European collapse.
My memories of course were very different. As a young boy I
knew nothing of economics and politics, instead my country was comprised of
green grass, football fields, corner pubs and fish and chips (in newspaper of
course). I wore a uniform to school and received a ruler to the hand or
backside depending on the nature of my academic crimes.
My parent’s decision to emigrate to Canada was a mystery to
me as I never understood the desire to trade Mushy Peas and Chips for a minus
thirty degree wind chill and maple syrup.
My parents spoke the Queen’s English and chastised me for
any “aint” that came out of my mouth. The three channels on my television
overflowed with the likes of Python, Dr.Who and all manner of comedy and
variety shows from the Goons to Rolf Harris – from “Some Mothers Do Have em” to
“Are you being served”.
My trip to England was split into two distinct portions – A
few days in Manchester at the European headquarters of my employer, and a few
days in London to relax and see the sights. Joining me was a good friend and
colleague who was eager to discover what London had in store for us.
Travel
After leaving Toronto in the evening and flying all night,
we arrived at Heathrow at 6AM with an expected layover of two hours before the
flight to Manchester.
After waiting like fools for quite some time for our bags
that never emerged, we were finally told that they were checked through to
Manchester, even though Air Canada specifically told us that could absolutely not
happen as we were changing airlines. So we meandered our way through spectacular
Heathrow in search of a British Airways ticket counter to check in. After
multiple tunnels, elevators and terminals (I believe we changed time zone at
one point) we found the domestic check-in and were promptly informed by a
lovely young lady that we had no seats on the flight as it was oversold.
Watching British Customer service in action was a delight,
despite our exhaustion. At one point I believe we had four individuals
including a Manager working for our cause. Phone calls were being made and
computers were being scrutinized, however, all for nothing as they could only
give us an 11AM flight coupled with sincere apologies and a pass for the lounge
- a lounge, it turned out, that was nothing short of a five star resort experience
– hot breakfast, drinks, comfortable lounge chairs to nap in and an amazing
view of a beautiful sunny morning (first British stereotype shattered).
Arriving in rainy Manchester we took a taxi to our downtown
hotel. Although Manchester was a mere thirty minute flight from London it seemed
like another country altogether. This is what I expected from reading all those
stories about the British economy. Dreary street after street went by with more
stores closed than open. While driving down one particular main artery we
stared in disbelief as every single store front was boarded up and in decay.
Depressing is too lively a word for what we were experiencing. It was obvious
why the sun didn’t follow us here from London – nothing worth seeing in better
light.
Although we had wonderful meetings with great people in Manchester,
we were happy when we boarded the flight back to London after two days of work.
Obviously I did not see the entire city in that time and no doubt there are
beautiful areas, but the general malaise and hopeless feeling that surrounded
Manchester were enough to solidify my negative feelings for this once giant
manufacturing hub. Many tried to persuade us that two Premiere Football teams
and strong prospects for regrowth made the city very desirable - they seemed
very genuine and hopeful, but we just wanted to know why they stayed in the first place.
“The country of London,” One fellow declared, “is too
expensive to breathe. But sadly, top talent goes there, and we lot are left to
sort through the leftovers. Much cheaper to live here though!” He exclaimed
with a smile and a swig of his dark ale.
Cheaper to live perhaps, but at what sacrifice to mental
health and happiness? Who am I to judge? A sunny day and a different street may
have made all the difference, but we just wanted on that plane.
Before leaving we were advised by our colleagues that we
should avoid using a taxi from Heathrow to downtown London and instead take the
Heathrow Express – a modern train that went from the airport to Paddington station
in less than twenty minutes. They were right, what a wonderful experience – one
thing the Europeans have perfected is train travel.
London
Paddington was sensational! Pictures of this historic
Station were all I had ever seen prior to stepping out on the platform. Looking
up I was transported into a clear recollection of a place I’d never actually
been. Huge metal and glass ceilings above my head with dirt and grime from
decades of arrivals and departures. I imagined the billowing black smoke of the
old steam engines as they would have pulled into that very spot a lifetime ago.
No doubt that some of that soot still clung to the rafters and walls of this magnificent
place. I thought about the war and what
this station must have looked like during the blitz. I wondered how much of it
had survived and how much was rebuilt.
The Brits could handle anything back then!
We were booked at the Marriott hotel downtown, beside the
London Eye. While currently a hotel the building was clearly once a center of
commerce and social importance and still remained a beautiful example of British
architecture conveniently located within walking distance to Soho and the
theatres. This convenience came at a nightly price just under an uninsured
hospital room in New York (surgery included).
This was our first monetary shock in London but by no means
our last. My friend and I chuckled the next morning at breakfast in the hotel
where our toast (singular) juices and coffees came to the pompous sum of sixty
dollars after currency conversion. Despite that it was the best cup of coffee
I’d ever had – the irony being that I needed to fly to this tea loving nation
to enjoy it.
The concierge was kind enough to find us tickets for the
Theatre on our first night in town. He advised us that we may want to consider
staying at the hotel instead of venturing out as it was their annual Christmas
Lights event and the ceremony would be overseen by Henry Winkler himself. While
tempted to watch the Fonz bang his fist on a switch to power up a Christmas tree,
we stuck to our plans to see Book of Mormon and hopped into a waiting cab.
Taxis in London have two commonalities, they all look like
a traditional 1940’s style hearse and they are all driven by cockney Londoners
(at least the ten we found were). Perhaps this was one of my more pleasant surprises,
but after many visits to New York or Montreal and being driven around by the
ubiquitous Haitian or Jamaican cabbies, I assumed London would be similar.
Instead we got a steady stream of Brits who were fascinated with our accents
(first question was always, “Yanks”?) and why we were in town. So friendly was
one bloke that he regaled us with stories of his professional boxing career.
Wonderful chap but by the time he got to his theory on why the Scots can’t box
we just wanted out of the cab.
Theatres and pubs filled our evenings, museums and historic
churches our days, almost erasing the mental images we had of Manchester, but
which, we wondered, was the real face of the country?
Dead Guy |
Alien Landing Zone |
The England of my memories still exists, albeit sequestered
in downtown London, but it left me with sadness and foreboding. For a steep price
you can still feel and live the traditional British lifestyle, but it’s now mostly
reserved for the tourists, bankers and real estate developers.
The pubs were full and money flowed all around me, from Piccadilly
Circus to Oxford Street, but I instinctively knew that beyond those boundaries the
real England began. Manchester is without doubt the real Britain; London is now
an entitled nation state oblivious or willingly ignorant of what lays beyond
her boarders.
The news stories were not wrong - the horrible economy,
unemployment, cost of living and social collapse are all very real and very
well disguised to the London visitor. If London represents the cultural
epicenter of England then the squeeze is on, for there will be no expansion of this
city state, more likely the rest of Briton will slowly encircle and erode what
is left of the empire.
Back in my room I turned on the television. “Are you Being
Served” was playing and I watched it with no joy or humor. That England, like
me, has gone, never to return.